Product Overview
"Important - This is a new and very popular item, but also in short supply. We're bringing in all that the manufacturer will send us but until this changes, delays are likely. Order early!
The newest addition to Worbla's line is a clear, transparent thermolastic! Fantastic for making visors, eyewear, ice blades, ‘invisible’ foundations and anything else you can imagine, Worbla’s TranspArt (WTA) has similar flexibility to Worbla’s Finest Art (WFA) and shares the ability to reblend scraps to recycle everything.
When the scraps are blended, they take on a milky, frosted look that’s great for diffusing light.
Make your own gems, faceplates, LED housings – shape by hand, or use a mold.
You can paint the interior of your shape, leaving the high gloss finish of the plastic to remain. It’s also easy to restore rough areas by applying lacquer or clear nail polish to dull areas.
Worbla’s TranspArt does require a higher activation temperature of 120° Celsius or 250° Fahrenheit compared to Worbla’s Finest Art (WFA)’s 90° Celsius. As such it’s strongly advised you wear smooth work gloves when using Worbla’s TranspArt. (Remember, you are heating it above the boiling point of water). It’s also recommended that you use a damp sponge for shaping, to avoid marks and prints, and a firm toothbrush is helpful to get small complex curves to shape.
Note: While TranspArt is similar to Finest Art, they are not the same product and you will find that TranspArt does not have the same adhesive qualities as Finest Art, and TranspArt will require more patience and time to achieve the look you want. It is possible to stick TranspArt to itself, but the temperature range is very narrow, and so glue is strongly suggested. Check below for a video by Worbla’s creators discussing the process of working with TranspArt.
Things to know!
- TranspArt does not have any indication to show when it is activated. It’s best to work with test pieces to get the hang of the material before starting a large project.
- TranspArt works best when heated gradually, compared to using a lot of heat in a short time.
- Work gloves are STRONGLY suggested. Smooth gloves and a damp sponge will prevent you from leaving marks in the plastic when it is heated.
- If overheated, TranspArt will start to form small bubbles or blisters in the plastic. These can’t be removed, though they are useful if you are trying to make something appear to be water.
- Once kneaded together, TranspArt scraps will take a milky, frosted appearance instead of the clear transparency.
- It is best to form shapes working one side at a time. You can use wax paper to support the section opposite while you work.
- TranspArt works best over positive molds. If using a negative mold, you may need to use clamps to keep sections in place.
- You can tint TranspArt with thermal tint films (usually used for headlights)
- Clean TranspArt with acetone or nail polish remover if you have residue from the mold process.
- Join TranspArt pieces with glue. Unlike WFA, TranspArt’s adhesive properties are difficult to use neatly.
- Solvent free glues are best. Always test your glues before using. Instant style ‘crazy’ glues work especially well and remain clear.
- A soldiering iron works very well for adding details such as lines or inscribing text. Apply carefully so that you don’t burn the edges brown.
- You can also use a soldering iron to ‘weld’ your TranspArt edges together.
- If you create a solid ‘stone’ out of TranspArt, use a soldiering iron to carve out space for your led.
